Fashion editor Alice Keegan explores the enormous legacy of the Windrush Generation, particularly the working-class immigrants’ impact on fashion, despite the discrimination they endured.
When a ship carrying primarily Caribbean passengers docked near Essex in 1948, a voyage became a quest for better beginnings. The immigrant passengers brought with them impeccable style and eclectic taste, changing British fashion forever. Streetstyle became synonymous with African heritage among working class communities, while formalwear became more exciting in the mainstream fashion scene. This was all thanks to the meticulous labour and endurance of the ‘Windrush Generation’. However, despite their significant achievements and inspiring tales, they were treated with scorn by many.
The arrivals disembarked the HMT Empire Windrush after a long journey across the Atlantic. In the aftermath of the Second World War, individuals from the Commonwealth countries were encouraged to assist Britain in its rebuilding. Strong in their belief that a better life awaited them abroad, many took a chance and emigrated to Britain. When Empire Windrush docked just outside London, it was crowded with young, stylish individuals, ready to embrace a new journey.
“Dressed in an odd assortment of clothes, many wearing ties of dazzling designs, over 450 Jamaicans arrived at Tilbury Docks on the Empire Windrush to settle down in the Mother Country”.
As was reported in the Thurrock Gazette in 1948; “Dressed in an odd assortment of clothes, many wearing ties of dazzling designs, over 450 Jamaicans arrived at Tilbury Docks on the Empire Windrush to settle down in the Mother Country”. Their fashion choices had already made a mark before their footprints even had the chance. The Windrush Generation went on to shape British style in a wide array of ways. Fashion was more than just clothing to the settlers, they appeared unafraid in their experimental style. For them, it reaffirmed and cemented their sense of self.
The Windrush Generation had been warned prior to departure about the hellish cold that is England compared to the tropical marine climate of the Caribbean. A pamphlet produced by the West Indies High Commission entitled “Going to Britain? - BBC Pamphlet” was a guide on what to expect from the dramatic difference in weather and climate. It emphasised the importance of wearing appropriate clothing for Britain’s unpredictable weather and warned of the risk of illnesses such as flu, bronchitis, and pneumonia.
During a time where menswear in Britain was drab and uninteresting, Caribbean men’s clothing choices were daring and exciting.
Menswear was where Windrush passengers made a particularly massive mark. During a time where menswear in Britain was drab and uninteresting, Caribbean men’s clothing choices were daring and exciting. They accessorised with hats such as the fedora, broad brimmed felt hats, and trilby styles. Fabrics worn included wool, leather and suede. They mixed and matched with smooth and rough textures, and shades ranging from bright to muted colours. Fabrics originally from the Caribbean Islands and the African continent were often included in their ensembles. Staples in their ‘Sunday Best’ included sharp tailored suits, overcoats, highly shined shoes, belts, ties and prints such as pinstripe. Women wore a wide range of frilled blouses, dresses, cardigans, hats, broaches, heels and jewellery. By fusing fabrics from the UK with Caribbean and African influences, the foundations of a Black British aesthetic were being laid. In every aspect of their outfits, they were bold and brave.
Many immigrants used their fashion expertise for economic gain upon settling in Britain, and this resulted in the emergence of generations of dressmakers and tailors within Caribbean communities. Men who had been tailors in Jamaica and other Caribbean nations began working for some of the UK's most recognisable menswear retailers. Many women became self-employed as seamstresses, working on designs from their bedrooms and their kitchen tables. Trinidadian textile artist and designer Althea McNish received global recognition and was the first Afro-Caribbean creative to achieve such acclaim. When she moved to the UK in the 1950s her colourful designs lit up a dark, austerity ridden post-war Britain. Her fabrics were held in such high regard that they were even selected for couture designs by legendary fashion houses, including Christian Dior.
Leaving their homelands behind, their clothing formed an integral aspect in preserving their senses of self. Their outfits were dubbed “talismanic”, as amidst this enormous, life-changing event, the passengers’ clothing choices signified their self-respect. Winston Levy, father of the award winning novelist Andrea Levy, brought with him a “Jamaica Shirt” featuring scenes of island life in Jamaica, and served as a reminder of his home. It now resides in the British Library.
Each suitcase encapsulated the hopes and expectations of the hundreds who left the Islands in search of better opportunities and experiences. Their individualised styles and stand-out outfits were concerted expressions of visibility in response to the feelings of invisibility they experienced upon their arrival.
The Windrush legacy is undoubtedly one of struggle for acceptance and attempts at integration. However, it is also one of reinvention and dynamism for fashion.
The 2018 Windrush Scandal exposed the racist legislation designed to reduce the non-white British population and the UK’s long history of politically sanctioned racial injustice, particularly their “hostile environment” policies. The Windrush legacy is undoubtedly one of struggle for acceptance and attempts at integration. However, it is also one of reinvention and dynamism for fashion. As hostility was rife in the daily lives of the Windrush generations, their fashion became a coping mechanism and a shield of armour; always dressing their best was a way to rise above stereotypes and combat the discrimination they experienced, underscored by their contribution to the British labour force, and the textiles industry.
Immigrants made personal sacrifices in the hope that a more prosperous, fulfilling life would be available to them overseas. While this was not always the case, one thing that can be sure is this Generations’ impact was that their experiences culminated in an essential element of ‘Black British Style’. In the era of the Black Lives Matter movement, the Windrush generations' story is incredible; inspiring new generations to become empowered to embrace their cultural heritage, with their clothing choices a meaningful medium. Today, festivals such as the annual Notting Hill Carnival display Caribbean culture in Britain at its very best. The first Windrush Generation and their descendants left an indelible impact on British culture, informing history, national identity and fashion within working class communities. This should never be disregarded or disvalued, as they themselves unfortunately were.