From monochromatic shades to luxurious texturing, Lousie O’Toole, looks at how Copenhagen Fashion Week shined a vivacious light on the swelling stylistic inclination of the ever-growing Danish fashion scene
While the Danes are seamingly taking over the world, with their prominent actors in shows such as Game of Thrones and Fortitude , and their models set to prowl the catwalks of London Fashion Week, their own fashion sense certainly doesn’t serve to disappoint. Danish street style is known for its realism. It’s said that their colour palette is exclusively black, white and grey and if they’re feeling crazy, maybe a little navy because their practicality overshadows their spontaneity. Copenhagen Fashion Week 2015, however, portrayed both their pragmatism and artistic flair. The runway style was simple, practical and impeccably stylish.
Throughout the shows, clean tailoring, fur and monochromatic colours, along with straight lines all made a forbearing appearance. Two up-and-coming designers, By Mirlene Birger and Mads Norgaard, had particularly eye-catching lines. Both designers collectively epitomise the style of the great Danes. By Mirlene Birger exudes a more mature style with its soft feminine tailoring and use of woolly jumpers. The collection really stands as an everyday look as it looks practical and comfortable but formal with the ability to be dressed down. It shows a multitude of earthy tones which lead towards monochromatic shades that flatter but keep the wearer looking crisp and prim. The Danish are known to have well-made key pieces that are easily matched and with this collection we see that’s a definite possibility.
In the ‘Mads Norgaard’ collection we see more of an androgynous style and also pops of colour shown in the engagement of fur throughout the collection. The use of stripes and beanies also lend to the androgynous theme and the beanies are also a favourite of the everyday Dane as seen in their menagerie of street style looks. Bomber Jackets and drainpipe pants paired with Docs also went down a treat in different parts of the collection. While the relaxed collections went down with their usual aplomb, a more glamorous side of the Fashion Week was seen on the runway of Fashion Hong Kong. The collection for women was an exceptional display of satin and tulle ball gowns in red, black and white, all of which were Oscar-worthy and equally stunning. The collection also included a selection of white après ski styles, full of open knits & luxurious tailoring that, again, saw the inclusion of fur, certainly signalling an oncoming spring trend.
Designers who veered more towards the avant-garde seemed enthralled by the Nicholas Nybro runway. All of the female models wore Sia-like wigs while the males donned riding caps. The models had an ethereal look to their faces with make-up denoting sunken eyes and the runway style was colourful with floral print accents. In a turn, both sequins and bomber jackets were seen on the boys while the girls donned baggy ensembles which sat slightly imperfectly on the models but looked truly glamorous in an alternative sense.
While Danish fashion is currently exploding, we saw this in its full sense at Copenhagen Fashion Week. The ateliers are designing what the Danish want to wear, not want they want the Danish to wear, and are merging traditional Danish style with futurism. It’s a fresh way of thinking and we look on in anticipation at the Danes, and are waiting, enthralled, to see how their style stakes will continue to rise in the coming decades.