"Kate Moss, She's A Rockstar in a Supermodel's Body"
She was the fashion industry’s favourite infamous bad girl for over a decade, but her path to this point was anything less than desirable. London-born Kate Moss turns 51 this month and began her career at the young (and questionable) age of 14. This article looks back on the highlights and lowlights of Moss’s unforgettable career, and why she is one of her generation's most iconic yet controversial models.
Moss’s career truly kicked off in 1990 when she was photographed by British photographer Corinne Day for magazine The Face. From that point on, she became prey to many insidious individuals lurking in the dark shadows, working in apparel. Most notably - Calvin Klein. In 1992, at just 16, Kate Moss starred topless for an ad campaign alongside Mark Wahlberg. Though this propelled her to international fame, Moss told Vanity Fair that her memories of the shoot were “not very good” and would expand later by explaining her feelings of objectification, vulnerability, and that the experience left her scarred.
Moss symbolised a new era of fashion - the grungy, ever-problematic ‘heroin-chic’ aesthetic, ushering in ubiquitous eating disorders and diet culture, whose effects were felt long after
Moss became a household name thereafter, gracing the cover of Vogue in 1993 and numerous times since, most recently in 2021. Coming off the back of the golden age of the supermodel, where the industry celebrated tall, curvaceous, glamourous women such as Christy Turlington, Naomi Campbell and Cindy Crawford, Moss was an anomaly. With a slight frame and short by industry standards (standing at 5’7), Moss symbolised a new era of fashion - the grungy, ever-problematic ‘heroin-chic’ aesthetic, ushering in ubiquitous eating disorders and diet culture, whose effects were felt long after.
Dubbed the “anti-supermodel”, Moss smoked cigarettes with her hair undone and makeup perfectly imperfect. She became one of the world’s most sought-after and highest-paid models, appearing in ads for Dior, Chanel, and Burberry, among others. A muse and friend to many of the industry’s top designers and photographers, including Mario Sorrenti, Alexander McQueen, and Marc Jacobs.
Moss has since spoken out against the industry and the tabloids’ treatment of young models, paparazzi prying into their private lives, and criticising their every action.
Despite this, throughout the nineties and noughties, Moss caused controversy with her every move. Various scandals involved arrests, illicit substances, and unsuccessful romantic relationships, notably with Johnny Depp and Pete Doherty. She was referred to in tabloids as “Cocaine Kate” and “Kate Mess”. Harmful quotes have been attributed to her and became part of the eating disorder culture that dominates the couture industry. Moss has since spoken out against the industry and the tabloids’ treatment of young models, paparazzi prying into their private lives, and criticising their every action - at a young age, Kate Moss was thrust into an industry which endorsed toxic work cultures, harmful body image, and easy access to worlds unsuitable for the child that she was.
Despite much damage to her reputation, and a stint in rehab, Moss remains a revered figure in fashion history. Her Glastonbury festival outfits and her “naked dress” are iconic; Moss possesses the unique ability to pair idiosyncratic items to create enthralling ensembles. She founded her own modelling agency in addition to a wellness brand, Cosmoss. She’s a Vogue cover regular, a staple of London Fashion Week, and a runway darling. Look no further than her triumphant return to the public eye and the fashion industry, walking down the Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show runway to Joan Jett’s “I Love Rock n Roll”. If we are to take anything away from looking at Moss, it’s her everlasting Rock n Roll spirit.