Fashion Editor Alice Keegan critiques the various measures taken by fashion corporations to become more sustainable, and considers the ethics of holding smaller businesses to the same standard.
Fashion has a poor reputation when it comes to sustainability - and rightfully so. The fashion industry is one of the most polluting and wasteful sectors and is responsible for approximately 10% of global carbon emissions, according to the World Bank. In recent years, sustainability has become a buzzword in the fashion industry, with many brands claiming to make strides toward more eco-friendly practices. Yet, the question remains: Is the fashion world truly doing enough to strive for sustainability?
Big businesses have significant opportunities to push for sustainability, with larger resources at their disposal, and wider influence; some even have the power to set industry standards.
With more than 160 brands signed up to The Fashion Pact, a non-profit initiative committed to achieving net-zero carbon emissions by 2050, efforts have certainly been made. The pact also aims for 50% renewable energy in their operations by 2025, targeting 100% by 2030, with roughly one-third of members already achieving this goal in 2020. Some big fashion brands have made headlines by announcing ambitious sustainability goals, setting targets to use more sustainable materials, and reducing carbon emissions within their supply chains. Luxury brands including Alexander McQueen have begun using recycled polyester in their products. Stella McCartney recently attended COP28, where she strongly advocated for policy and regulatory change to incentivise the decarbonisation of the fashion industry, whilst Gucci has declared itself carbon-neutral by offsetting emissions across its entire supply chain.
At the same time, there has been a wave of innovation that is pushing the fashion industry toward a new norm, such as the new algae-based dyes recently used in a Nike x Billie Eilish collaboration.
A critical aspect of sustainability in fashion is the choice of materials. Sustainable fabrics like organic cotton, Tencel, and recycled polyester have become more popular as brands seek to reduce their environmental footprint. Organic cotton, for example, uses less water and fewer chemicals than conventional cotton. Additionally, the dyeing process in textile production is notoriously polluting, and many brands still rely on harmful chemicals. Clothing retailers should look to obtain fashion certificates, including the Global Organic Textile Standard, Fair Trade Certified or Global Recycled Standard, to ensure best practice. The EU has approved new eco-design legislation, including a ban on destroying unsold textiles and footwear, which focuses on improving product circularity, durability, and repairability. At the same time, there has been a wave of innovation that is pushing the fashion industry toward a new norm, such as the new algae-based dyes recently used in a Nike x Billie Eilish collaboration.
At Berlin Fashion Week, many designers and brands showcased collections made from eco-friendly materials and produced under ethical conditions. They followed the model established at Copenhagen Fashion Week, which aimed to adapt to industry developments and shifts in the EU policy landscape. These events incorporated strict sustainability requirements, such as the use of certified organic fabrics, fair trade practices, and transparent supply chains. This emphasis on sustainability has been heavily reported on and praised as a model for other fashion weeks to follow. While Berlin Fashion Week highlights the possibilities of sustainable fashion, major fashion brands need to adopt these practices on a larger scale and integrate them into their everyday operations, rather than merely showcasing them at events.
small businesses have fewer financial resources than large multinational corporations, making adapting to environmental concerns a slower and more risky process.
While it cannot be denied that smaller businesses also have a role to play in striving for sustainability, the challenge of achieving this has a greater impact on their survival. Naturally, small businesses have fewer financial resources than large multinational corporations, making adapting to environmental concerns a slower and more risky process. Additionally, small businesses face distinctive barriers with regard to the increasing prices and cost of production that more sustainable practices can incur. Sometimes the necessity of staying afloat, even just on the short-term, outweighs the emphasis of environmental consciousness. For instance, sourcing sustainable materials or implementing eco-friendly production processes can be cost-prohibitive. While it is important to encourage sustainability across the industry, it is also crucial to recognize the different challenges faced by small businesses, and the incomparable environmental impact left behind by industry giants.
While the fashion industry has made some progress towards sustainability, much more needs to be done. Despite their claims, big fashion brands often continue to operate under unsustainable business models that prioritise profit over the planet - the all too familiar greenwashing method. Meanwhile, small businesses face unique challenges in implementing sustainable practices, and their efforts should be judged with these factors in mind. Ultimately, true sustainability in fashion will require a fundamental shift in how the industry operates. What is certain is that efforts should be made to hold the industry accountable in meeting their climate targets. The fashion industry must put the production of sustainable apparel and availing of optimal energy efficiency at the heart of their businesses.